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The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group: Discussion Forums

Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Owners Group :: View topic - '73 CL100 fix-up


'73 CL100 fix-up
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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spurlock wrote:
Nice work!

-Bill


Thanks!

Quick question - were the side covers on the engine originally polished, or were they painted?
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spurlock
Commuter
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Joined: Jul 08, 2014
Posts: 934
Location: Vacaville, CA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dgjessing wrote:
spurlock wrote:
Nice work!

-Bill


Thanks!

Quick question - were the side covers on the engine originally polished, or were they painted?


Painted, Dupli-Color DE1615 aluminum ceramic engine paint is a great match.





Happy New Year!

-Bill

_________________
1975 Honda CB125S
1989 Honda NX250
1989 Honda GB500tt
1989 Honda CB-1
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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful, Bill! Mine's not going to look that good, but it will be OK Smile.

I've checked one more (small) thing off the list this afternoon - installed a horn and re-did the wiring to same and the ignition switch. It's got an incorrect switch, but it works fine and I can't really justify replacing it. The main reason I wanted a horn was to conceal the back of the switch, where it was pretty obvious that a simple wire jumper would do as a key. So mission accomplished, plus if a cop ever asks if the horn works, it does!



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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went for a little ride today before the rain came in order to warm up the oil before draining it. The stuff has got about 500 miles on it, and it's blacker than I'd like to see, but still feels quite "oily" (if you know what I mean) and does not smell gasoliney (if you know what I mean). So I dunno... This in preparation for removing the side covers and cleaning the centrifugal oil filter, etc.

I had one 1/4" dia x 1/8" rare earth magnet left over from another project and I bored the drain plug to accept it (with a little JB Weld).

On another matter, I know the bike is not up to carrying a passenger, but nevertheless it would be nice to be able to do so for short distances occasionally. Do the lugs on my swingarm look right, or have they been butchered?



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spurlock
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ouch, those passenger peg lugs have been sawed off flush. There should be two "ears" sticking out to accept the folding pegs and their pivot pins. The right side had the short extension due to the muffler on that side.

-Bill

_________________
1975 Honda CB125S
1989 Honda NX250
1989 Honda GB500tt
1989 Honda CB-1
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dorT500
Full Throttle
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Joined: Jul 10, 2008
Posts: 3227
Location: Galveston County, Texas

PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here some pics...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/152786274034?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=152786274034&rmvSB=true


http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/352198310141?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=352198310141&rmvSB=true

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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys - I'll probably get in there & fix that.
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dgjessing
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
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Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Compression test results: Totally dry & cold, not having run for several days, 145 psi. With some oil squirted in, 220 psi. The manual says 170 psi warmed up. Spark plug looks pretty good (see attached). Based on all this (and the fact that it runs really well), I think I'm going to leave the top end alone. Don't fix it if it ain't broke and all that...

We got about 4" of snow last night and it looks like it's going to be in the teens all next week. Plus, it's winter Sad. So sometime before March I'll do some more stuff, but this thing is pretty much done!



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spurlock
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Location: Vacaville, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dgjessing wrote:
Compression test results: Totally dry & cold, not having run for several days, 145 psi. With some oil squirted in, 220 psi. The manual says 170 psi warmed up. Spark plug looks pretty good (see attached). Based on all this (and the fact that it runs really well), I think I'm going to leave the top end alone. Don't fix it if it ain't broke and all that...

We got about 4" of snow last night and it looks like it's going to be in the teens all next week. Plus, it's winter Sad. So sometime before March I'll do some more stuff, but this thing is pretty much done!


Great work you have done dgjessing, nice job saving another little Honda from the ravages of age and uncaring owners! And yes, your compression is fine. Compression readings are pretty squishy numbers. First, it only takes a tiny particle of carbon under a valve to cause a temporary leak and falsely lower the reading. And worse, compression gauges add volume to the combustion chamber, lowering the compression reading more or less depending upon the volume of the gauge. I have never understood just what type of gauge was used to figure the published spec in manuals. But for a test, I once measured the volume of my automotive gauge and its 18" long hose and added that figure to my calculated measurement of actual combustion chamber volume for my CB125. The volume the gauge added to the combustion chamber lowered the compression ratio from the actual 9.5:1 down to 6.15:1. So the moral is, compression readings are highly variable depending upon type of gauge and other conditions. When working as a dealership mechanic I can't remember using a compression gauge more than a handful of times. Instead my go-to assessment was pushing the kick starter past compression stroke by hand. That will tell you if compression is adequate or not.

-Bill

_________________
1975 Honda CB125S
1989 Honda NX250
1989 Honda GB500tt
1989 Honda CB-1
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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday & today I've replaced one broken and one bent spoke in the rear wheel, and trued the thing up a bit. Took a little head scratching to figure out which spokes to swing out of the way to make room for the new one, but I figured it out. I'm getting a maximum out-of-round of about .025" and a maximum run-out (wobble) of about .050". I didn't measure before starting so I don't know how much I improved things, but it's certainly better than it was based on visual inspection. Squeezing in the middle, all the spokes deflect about the same amount, so I'm happy. I wouldn't advise going racing on the thing, but I think it's good enough for a 100cc street bike.

Also, under the header of "Why wasn't I notified of this sooner?", I discovered that a stainless steel wire brush works like like a zillion times better to clean up dirty alloy parts than a carbon steel brush. Just amazing Smile.



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dgjessing
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2018 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting into cleaning up the engine side covers here... I've polished and painted the lettering on the round stator cover - turned out just ~OK - there is a pretty deep scratch where the gear shift lever was rubbing on it for some time. I considered sanding all the way to the bottom of the scratch, but I think that would have made the surface noticeably distorted, so we're just going to live with the scratch.

I have some VHT ceramic paint for the rusty exhaust pipe. I was considering using it for the engine covers as well, but I'm thinking I'll get the recommended engine paint instead. The VHT stuff has to be baked at 600* in order to fully cure, and I don't think my toaster oven is capable of that. Rolling Eyes

One of the screws holding the foot peg assembly on was missing and the threads in the case were fucked up. I have successfully cleaned up the threads and found a suitable screw.

I've got a gasket set on the way from (I think) China, but the postal service seems to have misplaced it. The vendor sent it registered mail, so it's complicated...



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dgjessing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moving along... I couldn't find the exact paint Bill recommended, but "VHT Engine Enamel" #SP127 "Univ. Aluminum" appears to be a very close match as well. Supposed to be good to 550* F, and does not require any baking to cure. I'm pleased so far.

I removed the stator in order to get a better look at the cam chain tensioner. Mine is the later type, and everything looks to be in order. I had it too tight (too far out). I've got it adjusted so it just takes up the slack, then one more turn.

There was about a 3/32" thick layer of crud in the centrifugal oil filter. Pretty clever device - I had no idea.

My gasket set appears to be lost in the mail (locally). Apparently they have some new people who aren't working out very well (lots of complaints). I managed to get the old right side gasket off intact, so I'l be able to make a new one. The left side rubber seal looks like it's OK to re-use if the new set never arrives, so I'll be fine.

Had a little taste of warm weather last Saturday & I went for a ride on my Solex 3800 - can't wait for spring Smile



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spurlock
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2018 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work, sounds like you're taking a thorough but pragmatic approach. One note on the VHT paint for exhausts, I've had good luck curing it with a heat gun. You just have to do it gradually in stages. I've had the best luck using VHT without any primer underneath, and applying only two light-medium coats. Then set up a heat gun aiming into one end of the pipe and heat just until you smell fumes. Swap ends of the pipe and go again, then let it cool. After a few cycles the pipe will take more and more heat without stinking or smoking. Then to finish curing, put it on the bike and run for short periods until you no longer see the paint changing appearance when it gets hot. Harbor Freight sells a decent heat gun.

Those centrifugal oil filters are pretty effective. And unlike a paper filter they work just as well with accumulated crud inside as when clean, which means you don't really need to clean them but once a decade or so if you are keeping the oil clean and tending the air filter. On the other hand if a bearing or something is going bad in the engine the metal particles in the filter will be an early warning.

-Bill

_________________
1975 Honda CB125S
1989 Honda NX250
1989 Honda GB500tt
1989 Honda CB-1
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dgjessing
Weekend Warrior
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Joined: Aug 11, 2017
Posts: 113
Location: Columbus, OH

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, my gasket set arrived! So this afternoon I've put the right side cover back on, along with the foot pegs, brake pedal, and exhaust.

The brake pull rod was bent up like a pretzel (a little hyperbole there...). I've straightened it out, and I expect that will make the rear brake a lot firmer.

In re-fitting the exhaust pipe I discovered that there was no seal at all in place in the head. I'm expecting less noise.

I pre-cured the paint on the pipe a little with a heat gun - to 250* then 400* for a while. Good enough Smile.

The newly painted parts are standing out like new white sneakers. Can't wait to dirty them up a little.



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dgjessing
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yucky! I pulled out the oil screen again and it was almost plugged with crud. Remember this is the screen that was installed backwards (and so not doing anything) previously. So it picked up all this crap in the last 500 miles. The stuff kinda seemed like dryer lint - not gritty or metallic. The plan is to change the oil after 50 miles or so and see what else the screen picks up (once riding season comes again). I'll also have a magnetic drain plug in there.
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