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Joined: Oct 02, 2006 Posts: 114 Location: New Britian, CT
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:10 pm Post subject:
I did have one that is running, but I sold it to a friend. I can help you with a few things such as locating parts,etc. The first thing I would do would be to clean it, and then see if the motor has compression. If it does then it should be very easy to get it running.
Joined: Feb 23, 2007 Posts: 362 Location: Orlando, FL
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:21 pm Post subject:
Welcome aboard, Mr. P!
Man, I've ressurected / restored bikes in that same, or worse, condition, as have probably half the guys on this board! I don't think any one of us would NOT like to be where you are now - right on the start of an adventure! ESPECIALLY a bike that has such connections - Man, your DAD'S ol' bike - how cool is that?
There will certainly be lots of help forthcoming. Some from 'generalists' like me, and some from guys who've done that to that same bike (or nearly).
Since you asked for help, but didn't say on what other than the tank, I'll give you my two cents on that: pointy screws (1" fine-thread drywall screws) and some diesel fuel work great, along with a lot of muscle! Others have had exceptional luck with electrolysis - a battery charger and a home-made positive electrode. Search this very Honda forum. Still others prefer diluted muriatic acid, or various other acids. My own technique is the screws & diesel fuel, rebuild the petcock and just use an in-line filter. The sloshing takes care of 99% of the loose stuff, and the filter captures anything else, keeping it out of the carb.
One more cent worth: DON'T use any kind of sealer. It just pushes the problem 5 years down the road when the sealer (and the captured rust underneath) starts to peel off, as it inevitably will.
Stator issue? Pfft - no problem, once you get to that point. Not rocket science, after all.
MAN, I'm jealous. What a neat project!
Good luck, welcome aboard, and.... you've got the main point down: PICTURES!
Kirk
*edit* - DAMN, the more I look at your pictures, the more fun it looks. I've got practically an entire game plan mapped out in my own mind on how I'd be doing it... I could write a book...
Joined: Oct 26, 2007 Posts: 147 Location: Greensburg Pa
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 8:26 pm Post subject:
Neat project, and it's your dad's bike-what a blast! It actually doesn't look all that bad. I've seen worse turn out pretty good. I recently did some work on a CL175. Nice little bike and not too hard to work on. For some reason, there seems to be a lot of interest in the 175 Honda's recently. Have fun and keep us posted.
but i'll try and keep everyone posted.. i sloshed some water in it last night ... and rusty water poured out.. i'm going to try the screws/fuel as soon as i get a chance. I'm thinking of taking the carbs off and cleaning them.. i've done it on other things but how do you take it off so i know nothings diffrent
Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 632 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:17 am Post subject:
MrPhotographer06 wrote:
tbp got it right!
but i'll try and keep everyone posted.. i sloshed some water in it last night ... and rusty water poured out.. i'm going to try the screws/fuel as soon as i get a chance. I'm thinking of taking the carbs off and cleaning them.. i've done it on other things but how do you take it off so i know nothings diffrent
I'd make getting that tank cleaned out your first priority.
Everyone here has their favorite technique for that - I'll share mine, cheap, easy, works great.
Go to Tractor Supply or Farm and Fleet, some place like that - get some Milk Stone Remover. It's actually about 70% phosphoric acid, dyed orange. Mix it about half/half with water. Remove your petcock, plug the hole, and fill (the tank) with the MSR solution.
Depending on how bad the tank is, it could take a couple days, but when you are done, the tank will be rust-free.
I had a CB200 tank, maybe the worst case of rust I've ever seen - I threw in a bunch of screws and stuff, they disappeared without a trace. No rattling or anything, the rust was so thick it just absorbed them - didn't see the screws again till it was all over. Took almost a week of soaking to do it, but worked brilliantly. Now I keep MSR on hand and process every rusty part through it - won't touch chrome, but will mess up your paint if left on it long enough. And it's a lot tamer than then muriatic acid - at least you have time to rinse it off before it burns the snot out of you.
Then worry about your carbs/petcock. Buy a gallon bucket of real carb cleaner at the auto parts store - it has a little basket in it to put your parts in. To get the carbs off, you have to pull off the air cleaners first. Then the manifold comes off with the carb. Take the carbs apart and soak the metal peices (only) - one carb at a time, don't get the parts mixed up.
Reassemble, set the timing with a little bullb (just one set of points, it's a 360 degree motor), and if you have decent compression, the little dude should fire right up. Get some new ponts and a condensor - 40 year old electrical parts are immediately suspect.
Oh yeah, get a new battery - they won't run with a deficient battery, you can waste a lot of time chasing your tail because of this.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Incidentally, Honda calls your bike a 1971 CB175 K5.
bill _________________ Bill Lane
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
Joined: Feb 23, 2007 Posts: 362 Location: Orlando, FL
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:16 pm Post subject:
For short term get-it-running, you'll need power to the ignition coils and points and that's all. Battery (+) to a switch, to the coils, to the points & condenser.
It'll be a total-loss system, and it won't spark as the battery gets down in the 10 to 11 volt range, but it'll do for getting it going.
If there are no screws visible on that model petcock, then you unscrew the little sediment bowl, and there's a bolt reaching up into the tank from inside the little bowl.
Don't be so hasty to write off those electrics nor be so quick to buy new... Unless you're sure, of course, like you can see where half the stator windings are melted, for example...
Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 632 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:19 pm Post subject:
MrPhotographer06 wrote:
my dad said i need to have that as my pittling project.. and it needs a stator..the electrics suck so i need new stuff..
but what all will it need to just fire up..
and how do i get the petcock off?
The petcock can be a REAL bummer on these. If you pull off the bowl-thingy on the bottom of the petcock and look up into it, you'll see a phillips screw. That's what is holding it to the tank.
As you might suspect, being there for 35 years can make it seize up pretty good. And you can't really use an impact or you'll dent the bottom of the tank. If ever there was an application for an allen head, this has to be it (I always replace them with an allen).
So, be careful.
You'll definitely need a new battery.
And it's pointless to try anything till you take care of the tank - that crap will plug up the carbs and the petcock in a heartbeat.
bill _________________ Bill Lane
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
i'm not sure if my age is on her but i'm 16..junior in h/s so i've been busy this week with school/football... game tonight,work tomorrow,car brakes sun. but i'll try and get some milk stone remover this weekend
well i spent about 30 minutes working on my tank.. got some of the loose stuff off with a wire brush on the out side.. then threw in a handfull of screws and water and shook it up.. then shook up some vinegar in it.. about 1/4 galon..i'm going to see what kind of results i get with that little bit before i attempt/waste money on more.. it worked GREAT on the underside of my gas cap so i'll see how this turns out.. i'll try and get some MSR later this weekend or early next week then filler up and do that direction.
Next after getting the tank fine and dandy, i'm going to take the carbs off and get them washed up/cleaned.. then go at the electrical stuff..
I stripped the bolt that holds the petcok on so i'm screwed there.. is there any reserve on this tank or is it just a bottom fed ? the two little lines that come out the bottom of the tank flow great. but idk where the lines go.
Also how can you get the emblems off the side the tank?
Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 632 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 3:32 pm Post subject:
MrPhotographer06 wrote:
I stripped the bolt that holds the petcok on so i'm screwed there.. is there any reserve on this tank or is it just a bottom fed ? the two little lines that come out the bottom of the tank flow great. but idk where the lines go.
Also how can you get the emblems off the side the tank?
-Scott
Those tank emblems should be held on by two little tiny screws each - right in the center of the "O" and the "D", as I recall.
Don't mess up those screws, they're impossible to find.
Sorry about the petcock - I warned you about that bogus screw...... Yes, there is a reserve - the longer tube (that goes inside the tank) is "normal", the shorter one is reserve. Though, if you can't get the petcock off the tank, how can you see those??
Sometimes if you soak in MSR long enough, that screw will break loose - you might lose the petcock in the process, but you can replace that.
bill _________________ Bill Lane
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
YUCK.. i havent gone all the way yet.. i can still probally get it out.. maybe drill the head out and get the bolt off with a pair of pliers.. or get my grandpas stripped head removers.. then i can get a pair of needle noses in there maybe to get it out.. then i'll go with the MSR.. are the hoses metal or actual hoses and rubber? I ran the pressure washer in my tank today for about 30 minutes. I'm gunna stick with what i have for now..then go with msr after i get it running. The honda Wing is the embem i'm talking about.
I put a gas/oil mix in my tank so it'll coat the tank to keep from rusting and the only part thats r-rusting is right under the opening
the nasty bottom
i've found a pinhead sized hole in the inside wall. I'm going to sand it/clean it..jb weld over and sand smooth and prime it so it dosent rust..
then
move to the carbs. i may go ahead and pull them and get them cleaned up
whats a source for the gaskets? I need the carb gaskets and the gaskets for the head..
only if yall recomend it then i will but i feel i need to crack the head open open and have a look see in there after i check compression. I may do a little light sanding[did that on my brothers 80cc 2stroke suzuki 88 DS80] on the jug with the piston down and at TDC blow the grains off. Unless a ring is broken i dont plan to replace those.
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