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Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 631 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 6:39 pm Post subject:
MrPhotographer06 wrote:
-Question-Any tips on getting the head off?
Does the motor need to be off the frame? i just need to see if the jug does need to be removed or will it do as is.
Also do you have to have a metric compression checker or are sparkplug threads generic on motorcycles?
Yes, the engine has to be out of the frame to get the head off.
The plug threads are 12mm.
bill _________________ Bill Lane
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
you mentioned in a earlier post about the tank having a pinhole leak, and was going to JB weld it ---not a good idea if you don't want it to leak later either have it gas torch welded or leaded might as well do it right
well today i got some Gas Tank Repair putty..and put it on at about 11:30 and then just now I rinsed it out and then put a 28oz container of CLR in the tank..filled the rest with water and let it set. I'll probally dump it out into a bucket tomorrow shake some screws around in it with water then put it back in for another day or two.Hopefully this works good and i'll filler up with gas/oil mix to keep it clean.
[b][i]Opinion: Do you guys think since the corrosion was in the intake between the carb and the cyl. that I should take it off and hone it out ? or put something in it and kick the starter to get it out?
it's highly likely that one or more of the valves were open the whole time that bike sat, the valves and valve seats may have rusted and it'll be a wonder if the engine itself isn't seized, that crud in the intake? just wire brush it out and go from there, does the engine turn over? does it have any compression?
yes the engine turns over.. it gives the blub blub sound of compression but no numbers yet.. i know the common measure is thumb over the hole and if it blows it off then its good..
i'll check tomorrow with the finger
btw the CLR thing is working GREAT! after the first hour it was wiping off with a light toothbrush..
here it is on the tank.. yes dont worry I did sand around it good.. using an 80 grip flap wheel and applying the putty to it.. then i had more than i needed mixed up so i went ahead and spread it out good.. it hardened and i sanded it a little to make the edges smooth.. and as of 2 mins ago it was holding good to the CLR and water..heres a pic from a few mins ago
for one..
in English.. [worst class] got some good grades back
in Geo. I got the highest grade on two tests.. a 100 and 128 [since i was the only to do extra for the bonus...]
then after school.. i didnt get a starting position in football.. but!
I got home to my gas tank and as soon as i looked in it i saw clean.. and i dumped it out to find
RUST!
and in the tank?
CLEAN!
i was dancing like crazy .. i've got it brewing some more right now so i can get some more out.. tomorrow i'm going to shake some screws in it a good bit.. later in the week i'll get some more and run a thicker concentrate.. maybe with simple green [9.99 a gal.]
Question: What do yall recomend to put in it to coat it from re-rusting while i'm messing with the bike?
my mom was telling me that i'll probally be dreaming of riding it tonight.. i was singing and crap..
next +..my dads been working a bunch of OT and hes probally buying a truck =P heh and i'll get to drive it some
to coat/seal the tank against re-rusting phosphoric acid works great check Lowes ,home depot, Menards or whatever big box chain in your area for concrete etching preperation fluid usually a gallon jug, find one that has phosphoric acid as the active ingredient and you're good to go, turns the raw steel to a light gray anti-corrosion surface all you have to do is swish it around in the tank and it's done pour it back into the jug Warning this is acid flush tank with water to neutralize the acid after you're done
Joined: Sep 06, 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Connecticut, USA
Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:14 am Post subject:
Hi Scott,
I'm a new member of this group, I love these bikes, and have worked on a lot of them, and I can tell you, don't assume things are messed up until you have a real reason to. I rescued my current CB200 from a guy who claimed all kinds of great things about it, but then it turned out it had been UNDER WATER in a flood. The engine, being sealed and lubricated, was PERFECT, but the float bowls of the carbs were full of clear clean water! These little engines are nearly bullet proof. So don't pull the head just yet. You may be pleasantly surprised. Sounds like you're pretty mechanical and have local help, just don't be too hasty. It'll be a pile of parts on the floor in no time! (And what's this about honing the carb? More later.)
That said, make sure you have a shop manual or two as you get going. I recommend Haynes and the factory shop manual, with Clymer as a backup. (Yeah, I'm tuning in a little late.)
Have you had the plugs out? If not, be careful and don't just muscle them out, or the plug holes will strip. Also check the oil on the dipstick. If it is still clean, there's hope! Some "quick and dirty" tests follow:
Use a push in type compression tester with a rubber tip. Adapters are not needed.
With the plugs out and laying on the head, kick the engine over with the key on (with 12 volts, of course), and see if you get a spark at the plugs. If not, pull the plug off the wire and with a suitable screwdriver in the wire end, hold it close to the head and kick it again to check for spark. If spark> put the plugs back in and hook them up. If no spark> the points might need some attention.
Then, as a test, (you don't even need the tank on it. Just make sure you're outside when you do things that might catch the house on fire!) with the air cleaners off and the mouse nests disposed of, key on, throttle open, spray a short burst of Gumout carb cleaner into each carb, close the throttle and crank it, either by kickstart or electric. It should fire for a few seconds. I say Gumout brand because it burns. I learned the hard way, some store brands of carb cleaners don't burn. If you get some response, good. That'll encourage you.
I typically get all my parts off of Ebay, though your local dealer may be able to help. Not everything is supported at the dealer though, so you'll need to find it elsewhere. Carb gaskets can be found at Sirius Consolidated, on eBay, or probably on their own website. Strangely enough, Autozone and Advance Auto stock spark plugs. Don't skrimp on these. They're cheap. But develop an efficient search on eBay, and you'll find a wealth of parts. I've even seen blue and white tanks that would match yours.
More to come as you go along. Bill's advise is good too.
Joined: Sep 06, 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Connecticut, USA
Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 1:28 am Post subject:
Whoa, I just saw page two with the pictures of the intake crud. So my comments are a little out of sequence. By the way, nice buck!
You know, even if you take this bike completely apart for your own education, the parts will still be worth something. It may be a rough starting point, but most anything is salvageable. Well, maybe not that carb, hahaha. Keep going!
Pete
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