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Joined: Jul 27, 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Lansing, MI
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:14 pm Post subject:
I just cleaned some tanks with plain old CLR. I just put a bottle (~$5) in a five gallon bucket of water and let my tank sit for a few days mixing it around whenever I walked by and felt like it. It didn't work fast, but all the rust is gone gone gone. It didn't hurt the paint either. Then rinse it out with water and gas and run it. Other guys have done the same thing with Simple Green.
Joined: Feb 12, 2007 Posts: 356 Location: Studio City, So Cal
Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:47 pm Post subject:
Simple Green??? Who'da thunk!!!
With Rusteco, DO NOT put water in it, it will ruin it. You really need about 5 gallons of it to do it right, but it's reuseable, you can do many tanks.
After you get the rust and Rusteco out you can rinse it out and thouroughly dry it. I use a vacuum cleaner hose on suck overnight. Then coat it with POR15 tank sealer, there will already be a little rust forming but that's ok. Or you can just fill it with gas. If you use the POR-15 it will last damn near forever, much better than Kreem. _________________
I recently did a tank with Rusteco. I used 2 1/2 gallons on a 5 gallon tank. It wasn't too rusty to start with, but it seems like I pretty much used up it's effectiveness.
I put a rusty tank float in afterwards and it seemed much slower.
Overall I was impressed with the stuff.
Joined: Jun 17, 2008 Posts: 8 Location: Thousand Oaks Ca.
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:41 am Post subject:
For fiberglass tanks i use a tank sealer from Caswell Plating, I use it on my Rickmans it is the best tank sealer that i have found. It can also be used on steel tanks. Their cad-plating kit has also saved me a ton of money.
Joined: Mar 18, 2007 Posts: 55 Location: Galesburg, IL
Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 8:51 pm Post subject:
If you're going to paint your tank after cleaning it, you can't beat milk stone remover. The phosphoric acid does a great job on rust and leaves behind a coating that keeps rust from forming again. Since you dilute it, you can do roughly 25 tanks for the price of Rusteco, much more if you reuse it. _________________ Mack, VJMC #2014,
CB500T, KZ750B
Joined: Feb 15, 2007 Posts: 565 Location: LaPorte, Indiana, USA
Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:19 am Post subject:
macattak wrote:
If you're going to paint your tank after cleaning it, you can't beat milk stone remover. The phosphoric acid does a great job on rust and leaves behind a coating that keeps rust from forming again. Since you dilute it, you can do roughly 25 tanks for the price of Rusteco, much more if you reuse it.
Sorry - I have to butt in here.
The thing about MSR leaving a rust-preventing coating is purely a myth.
In fact, nothing could be further from the truth - the parts will begin to rust again right in front of your eyes almost, unless you proceed with some futher treatment like painting.
This is a fact, as I use MSR to process nearly all parts on my projects. When it comes out of the acid, it gets washed, dried with air then acetone, then painted double-quick.
Easy enough to prove to yourself....
But don't get me wrong, I love the stuff.
bill _________________ Bill Lane
"When your only tool is a hammer,
everything starts to look like a nail."
Joined: Mar 18, 2007 Posts: 55 Location: Galesburg, IL
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:09 am Post subject:
MSR does not flash rust. It's common for people to confuse MSR with Muriatic acid wich does flash rust. MSR is Phosphoric acid and it DOES leave a coating. This has been discussed on the VJMC threads ad naseum. I learned this from the _________________ Mack, VJMC #2014,
CB500T, KZ750B
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