Joined: Oct 26, 2007 Posts: 2916 Location: Greensburg Pa
Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:08 pm Post subject:
i always have the choke closed when i start it. you use the word circuit.all i can think about is electronics.how do i repair the choke circuit?thanks
The THROTTLE should be closed when attempting to start it. The circuit that I'm referring to is the path that the fuel takes from the bowl to the throat of the carb. These carbs don't actually have a "choke". A choke is usually a butterfly valve that chokes off the air flow and causes an over rich fuel mixture. These carbs use a starter valve that is lifted off a seat and allows extra fuel to flow from the bowl to the throat. There's a very small orifice in the bowl where the fuel enters the starter valve "circuit". It's not uncommon for that orifice to be plugged and cause hard starting.
......Paul _________________ ï¿½77 CB550f
ï¿½75 GL1000-finally finished
68 CB450K1-taking up all my time
Joined: Oct 30, 2009 Posts: 1792 Location: Parker, CO
Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:03 am Post subject:
Opening the throttle while starting a cold 2-stroke, is one of the most common mistakes users make. Paul has explained the process correctly. In order for the engine to draw fuel through the starter circuit, it must be able to pull a vacuum through that circuit. If the throttle is open even slightly, all the vacuum potential is lost through the air intake. Even with the throttle closed, the throttle slide is still open just a bit, like it would be when you are idling without the enrichment circuit. _________________ ...the era is gone forever, fortunately the motorcycles remain...
i cleaned out the enrichment tube and sprayed carb cleaner in it,and cleaned the spark plug(didn't need it,but why not?)also,took off the bowl on the petcock.it looked like it had a disintegrated piece of foam rubber in it.is there supposed to be a filter in there?cleaned it out.also,when i push down the "choke"it popped back up some,so i made a clip to keep it completely closed.started,without throttle,in 5 kicks!thanks again for all your help.
i've been trying to find an owner's(not service)manual for my 74 suzuki ts250,but the only one i can find is on ebay and i'm not paying 50 bucks for it.i need to know things in it that are not in the service manual,like how often to change gear oil,tire pressure,etc.i would think i could find a pdf file or something.any thoughts?
Joined: Jul 10, 2008 Posts: 3096 Location: Galveston County, Texas
Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 3:37 pm Post subject:
without taking my bike apart,how do i get oxidation off the engine and other things?also,where do i buy paint for my bike?i can get the #,but where do i get it.i'm in ohio.thanks
I'd start off with some #0000 fine steel wool pads soaked in WD40 to remove the 'fluffy' layer of corrosion/oxidation This will reveal how pitted the aluminum is and how much wet sanding (sidecases, wheel hubs, etc)you will have to do.
I've use a paint stir stick with the fine steel wool pad wrapped around it to get between the fins on the cylinders and cylinder heads. Be sure and wash off the WD40 with soap and water if you plan on compound cleaning and lightly polishing those pieces.
If you want to remove the original clear coat from sidecases then I would (do) use 'Aircraft Remover'. You may have to rinse and repeat...that was some hard clear coat they used, but remember, once you have removed the original clear coat....you own it....in other words, you will have to keep polishing them more than you might like, but again, your call. Some people clear coat afterwards but I don't. A new clear coat may turn on you in the not so distant future.
Wetsanding aluminum sidecases......Grit of the sandpaper? Your call, but you can probably start off with 600 (400 if bad) to 800 and eventually use 1200 or even the #0000 fine wool again if you need to before any final polishing.( I use Mothers' brand aluminum poslish) Just see what works best for you.
Keep in mind that a lot of sidecases when they were new were nice and shiny but did not really have a mirror finish to them so don't feel you have to take it that far, but most of us do. Use soapy water while you are wetsanding. That helps keep the sandpaper from 'loading up'.
For more and probably better details just research 'polishing aluminum sidecases'
Good Luck, some call hand polishing good therapy or a labor of love....after about one hour, I think it sucks.
On the paint,
Sorry, those old code numbers are worthless except for a reference to the name of the color.
With the exception of candy colors, there are a lot of places you can get the paint matched from an original part...say the underneath of the fuel tank for an independent automotive paint supply house local to you to scope and get you an exact match or very close.
There are other places.....just search vintage motorcycle paint and see what you can come up with.
Again, Good Luck _________________ _________________________
GONE.......WITH A PUFF OF SMOKE AND A BLUR OF SPOKE
Last edited by dorT500 on Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:26 am; edited 1 time in total
i would never thought anyone would clear coat aluminum,but i get it.some part shine up faster than others,i have found.the part with the light,turn signal and horn switches,for instance,was real easy to shine-i mean SHINE!the covers for the points,etc,not so much.thanks for all your help.did you see my question about using hi test gas?harmful,helpful,or what?
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